Climbing adventure year round
Climbing in the Whiteface Region is characterized by beginner-friendly trad climbing routes and classic ice climbing pitches. Like much of the Adirondacks, sport climbing crags are few and far between in the Whiteface Region, as the area's ethic is very traditional. If you're coming to climb here in the summer, bring a full trad rack, and in the winter you'll want all your ice climbing gear.
Where to climb in the Whiteface Region
During the winter season, popular ice climbing routes include Multiplication Gully (a standalone line, unlike the popular ice in Keene Valley and at Pitchoff), and nearby Chiller Pillar, located near the Whiteface Mountain toll road.
If you're looking to get into trad climbing, the Notch Mountain slabs are a perfect introduction for leading pitches, placing gear, and going with a partner who can set top ropes for both practice and fun climbing. The climbs at this spot never get above 5.10, ranging as low as 5.2 (basically a scramble). You can access the slabs from the northern trail to Copperas Pond via a climbers herd path.
For something more challenging, try Moss Cliff, located across from Notch Mountain. The 500-foot granite wall features multi-pitch crack climbs — and some of the toughest routes in the Adirondacks, ranging from tough 5.9+ to high end 5.13. Moss Cliff is a storied crag, being featured in popular climbing magazines like Rock and Ice for its hard trad ascents. At the top, views of the nearby Sentinel Range Wilderness, and the High Peaks in the distance, are breathtaking. It's one of the few cliffs in the Adirondacks that has climbs reminiscent of big wall climbing in Yosemite. Accessing the cliffs requires fording the West Branch Ausable River, use caution. Find more beta on Mountain Project if you're planning to spend time here.
Leave No Trace and Love Your ADK Pledge
The magic of the Adirondacks is the result of previous generations taking a long view and protecting the mountains, lakes, and rivers within the Park. That tradition continues today as we support and encourage everyone to practice Leave No Trace ethics, which help protect the lands and waters of the Adirondacks. Keep up to date with NYSDEC crag closures for peregrine falcon nesting season, and try sticking to well-travelled climbers trails.
